Industry Insight

WAYS TO MAKE YOUR MARK IN FASHION DESPITE THE "YOU CAN'T SIT WITH US" MENTALITY THAT PLAGUES THE INDUSTRY

WRITTEN BY SHARRA GREENE

Pioneer and Curator of Ebony Fashion Fair, Eunice Walker Johnson sitting front row during fashion presentations:  a rarity during her era in the industry and the photos say so much.

Pioneer and Curator of Ebony Fashion Fair, Eunice Walker Johnson sitting front row during fashion presentations: a rarity during her era in the industry and the photos say so much.

As expressive and beautiful the phenomenon that is fashion can be, there’s also such a strong sense of secrecy and exclusivity concerning the industry. Anyone who wants in has experienced this in one way or another. From authorities in fashion refusing to hire people of a certain look, race, religion, or social class, down to giving no front row seats at shows for those who aren’t deemed “good enough” over trivial matters, even down to how secretive individuals can be when it comes to plugging each other with valuable resources , the “crabs in a barrel” attitude that often exudes from many of those who are apart of the fashion industry is virtually impossible to miss; and if you let it, it can leave you feeling discouraged, disheartened, and underrepresented. Thankfully, we’re living in a time where those who came before us have walked so we could run, and it’s becoming easier to still show up and kill it in this industry, in your own right.

Whether you’re an aspiring influencer, designer, model, stylist, or even if you’re just a lover of fashion culture, I’ve found on my journey just how important it is to unapologetically offer your 2 cents, despite voices in the industry constantly trying to control what is perceived as worthy, acceptable, and appealing and what is not. You never know how your perspective will positively influence and inspire others along their own journey. Here are a few ways to keep making your presence known…

IF YOU CAN’T JOIN THEM, CREATE YOUR OWN

This has been the approach that some of fashion’s most iconic trailblazers and legends in the making have taken, and are still taking. When we abandon our need to be accepted by everyone we feel is important, that’s often when our true calling makes itself known. As a young black woman who’s building a career in fashion, it’s no secret that throughout history, there have been many doors closed for people who look like me. However, I’m so blessed to be pursuing fashion in a time where those who came before me have knocked down some doors and in a sense, tossed me the key.

For context, the LEGENDARY AND ICONIC Ebony Fashion Fair Curator Eunice Walker took initiative to highlight blacks in fashion during a time when the mainstream tastemakers in the industry were ignoring us. After having a dream of writing for Vogue deferred, Editor in Chief of Fashion Bomb Daily, Claire Sulmers (if you read here often, you already know she’s my fav!) utilized her growing online presence to create “her own Vogue” in so many words, building and maintaining a unique space for multicultural fashion to be celebrated. “First you ask, then you take.”, she says.

Eunice Walker Johnson’s Ebony Fashion Fair exhibit, highlighting black up and coming designers of her time.

Eunice Walker Johnson’s Ebony Fashion Fair exhibit, highlighting black up and coming designers of her time.

From Instagram born, profitable fashion brands to influencers who found their tribe, went viral, and never looked back… we live in an era where when we can’t join someone’s movement, we can create our own and be just as, if not even more successful, and a lot of industry vets are upset about it. But there’s honestly no going back… due to the way we consume our information and entertainment. (internet, social media, etc.) There’s an array of ways to consistently contribute your perspective in any industry, especially fashion.

Seeing a lack of representation in fashion that moves you to want to act on it? Instead of wasting time begging and waiting for certain opportunities, be the change and create your own. It can start with establishing your own movement, whether it be via an online presence where you air your grievances on the issues that move you on a podcast, blog, IGTV, etc. or even creating your own line of clothing and making sure we see black women and women of color in EVERY. SINGLE. campaign. Through experience, I’m learning that it gains momentum when you continue to create your content, share your style, share your opinions, and continue to show up and speak up despite whoever’s trying to silence you. You’d be surprised how many people identify with your voice when you use it. You’d also be surprised how many people are willing to invest in your movements.

SPEAK UP, NEVER BE AFRAID TO PLUG YOURSELF

Me introducing myself to legendary stylist Misa Hylton at the Convos with Claire networking event in December 2018.

Me introducing myself to legendary stylist Misa Hylton at the Convos with Claire networking event in December 2018.

With fashion being such a competitive industry, it’s important to know how to plug yourself. This is probably the biggest lesson I’ve learned thus far when it comes to my business. When I first started styling back in 2014, I was not as confident as I am now, which probably caused me to fumble a few bags in the process. It didn’t help that I’m naturally introverted, believe it or not. But over time, I’ve learned when to break out of my shell and handle business because if I don’t speak for my brand, no one else will.

When you walk into a room hoping to make your mark, Ive learned that it’s important to remember that people don’t read minds. They’re not aware of the gifts you possess, and until you speak up and let them know, you risk missing out on building meaningful connections with others and further establishing your brand. If you’re looking to get better at representing yourself, practicing your elevator pitch and testing it out at networking events or when you meet new people can help you learn to leaving a lasting impression at a moment’s notice.

SUPPORT A MOVEMENT BEFORE IT’S “MOVING”

It pisses me off to see the countless dope brands and creatives in fashion who offer a fresh point of view and quality work getting knocked off, ripped off, and overlooked. I’m sure you’ve heard of the saying “nobody is messing with your movement until it’s moving” but it can be challenging to gain momentum when people don’t support you just because you haven’t “made it” yet, whatever that means. That’s why I’ve recently been making a point to support my fellow small business owners, minority owned businesses, and an array of other groups in fashion who constantly seem to get put on the back burner.

When you choose to support a label, or brand before it has completely taken off and gone mainstream, not only do you gain credibility to whoever’s watching as a trendsetter and not a follower, but you also gain leverage by supporting at the beginning stages because it often leads to strong partnerships with the owners of these companies that others missed out on because they simply jumped on the bandwagon later on down the road. I actually just recently interviewed a BOMB micro influencer who executes this concept amazingly. Stay tuned, my Q&A with her is coming to the blog next week! But back to the point, consider taking on ambassadorships or even simply purchasing from more of the brands that are slept on, it can help you make your mark in the long run, in more ways than one.

Hope you got something from this post! New content on its way to the blog very soon! Stay tuned safe & Stay tuned!

Sharra,

“The definition of walking art.”

"AUTHENTICALLY HERSELF": MY INTERVIEW WITH DESIGNER, BRAND OWNER, & AMAZON PRIME'S "MAKING THE CUT" COMPETITOR MEGAN SMITH

WRITTEN BY SHARRA GREENE & FEATURING MEGAN SMITH

Megan Smith.

Megan Smith.

If you’ve been watching the hit Amazon Prime fashion series “Making the Cut”, you should be hip to women’s ready-to-wear designer Megan Smith of the growing brand, Megan Renee. Upon binging the series, I was instantly drawn to her, both as a resilient woman who comes from humble beginnings and as an immaculate designer who’s mastered balance when it comes to sultriness and sophistication. Rooting for her from the couch, I watched her kill challenge after challenge, showcasing innovative silhouettes and impressing the likes of Tim Gunn and the legendary Naomi Campbell. I was so inspired that I HAD to connect with her and learn more.

Looks from Megan’s SS’18 & SS ‘19 collection.

Looks from Megan’s SS’18 & SS ‘19 collection.

In my latest episode of Style With Sharra: The Podcast Series, Megan and I chop it up about the ways she navigates the ever changing fashion industry. I interview her on various topics ranging from where she started her career in design, her experience as a contestant on “Making the Cut”, the support she’s received from Naomi Campbell, and ways we can elevate each other as black women in fashion.

Megan consulting Tim Gunn on “Making the Cut”.

Megan consulting Tim Gunn on “Making the Cut”.

Hit the button below to listen to our full interview on Style With Sharra, available here, on iTunes, and in your Apple Podcasts app.

Check out Megan’s amazing collections and shop her line at shopmeganrenee.com

Follow her brand here and keep up with her journey on Instagram here!

Make sure y’all let me know your favorite part of the interview in the comments!

Sharra,

“The definition of walking art.”

P.S. New style advice is coming up next on The Walking Art Blog very soon. Make sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss a post!

OKAY, BUT WHERE TF IS THE DOCUMENTARY FOR MY ICONIC FASHION MENTOR FROM AFAR??? A CRASH COURSE ON BLACK FASHION HISTORY'S HIDDEN FIGURE EUNICE WALKER JOHNSON

WRITTEN BY SHARRA GREENE

Eunice sitting front row at the Bill Blass show, circa ‘71. This photo says so much.

Eunice sitting front row at the Bill Blass show, circa ‘71. This photo says so much.

Self quarantining has me watching and rewatching fashion documentaries both old and relatively new. As I’m revisiting some of my favs (House of Z, The September Issue, In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye, etc.) I couldn’t help but notice how many of the most influential blacks in fashion do not have a highlight reel for me to indulge in during this time. (Disappointed? Yes. Surprised? Not at all.) One in particular came to mind as it was so painfully obvious that she of all people is way overdue for a fashion film covering her life and legacy. Let me find out I gotta switch career paths real quick just to make sure it’s done and done right! (I’m probably bluffing so somebody in the film industry, please get on it ASAP. It’s so necessary!)

If you listen to my podcast or follow this blog, I’m pretty sure you’ve heard me rant about the iconic Eunice Walker Johnson at least once before. I’m obsessed. She’s been my blueprint and one of my biggest inspirations when it comes to being proactive with my goals in fashion and not waiting for someone else to hand me an opportunity. If you’ve been living under a rock (or are just uninformed because not enough fashion platforms speak on her impact) let me school you real quick.

Model Pat Cleveland at an annual Ebony Fashion Fair showcase in Versace couture.

Model Pat Cleveland at an annual Ebony Fashion Fair showcase in Versace couture.

Seeking to raise money for local charities in the black community, Eunice Walker started the Ebony Fashion Fair back in 1958, an exhibition, named after the magazine that she and her husband John H. Johnson founded as part of their growing publishing company (yes, I’m referring to THE Ebony Magazine). The showcase brought high fashion and haute couture to a new audience, a black one. Walker’s exhibit ended up raising over 50 million dollars for charity along with introducing countless black models, artists, and coordinators to an industry that was typically discriminatory and closed off to them, by hiring and casting them in the annual production.

Eunice and some of her models at the 33rd annual Fashion Fair, themed “Freedom Explosion”.

Eunice and some of her models at the 33rd annual Fashion Fair, themed “Freedom Explosion”.

Throughout the 60’s and 70’s, much of Eunice’s time was spent curating the show and networking to make the necessary connections needed to make her showcase great year after year. She spent a lot of time collaborating with emerging designers in the black community as well as traveling to top mainstream designers’ shows, even sitting front row at many of them. You can imagine that this created friction in the industry, as Eunice and her team often struggled with getting into the shows that they had so diligently earned the right to attend, due to the racism and nepotism that plagues the fashion industry. But numbers don’t lie. The monetary success of Ebony which, keep in mind, Eunice’s husband John was the founder of, often played a role in making the gatekeepers budge. Walker would bring back pieces from some of the most sought after designers to feature in her showcase, which had a strategic theme each year.

An exhibit of some archived pieces from the showcase over the years.

An exhibit of some archived pieces from the showcase over the years.

In addition to her success in the fashion space, Eunice essentially was the Fenty Beauty before Fenty Beauty. She founded Fashion Fair Cosmetics, THE FIRST beauty line made specifically for women of color. The high demand of quality makeup products for darker skin tones made her an innovator in the cosmetic industry and forced other competing companies to look at the quality and availability of makeup that they provided for black women, or lack thereof.

Enough said. Run my idol her documentary ASAP. Maybe it’s just not on my radar. If you know any cool documentaries that cover Eunice Walker Johnson, beyond the 5 minute clips found here and there on the internet, please send them my way! Link them below! See more of my fave images of Eunice in her element in the gallery above.

Sharra,

“The definition of walking art.”

REDEFINING LUXURY: GETTING RID OF THE STIGMA ATTACHED TO BLACK OWNED BRANDS AND PUSHING THE CULTURE FORWARD

WRITTEN BY SHARRA GREENE

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In an interview with Fashion Bomb Daily, luxury streetwear designer Milan of Milano Di Rouge opened up about the criticism she received following the release of her first $500 branded sweatsuit. “Who does she think she is? She’s not Gucci… Why does she have a $500 sweatsuit?” The backlash went viral, eventually creating even more buzz for her brand. But as I watched the interview, it made me start to think about black owned luxury labels as a whole and the attitude that some of our own people carry when it comes to supporting mainstream luxury labels vs. supporting our own. Milano says, “I don’t think that we as black people understand our value.” As a stylist who recommends various brands to clients, I’ve had an up close view at what black consumers see as valuable and I couldn’t agree more with Milano.

There have been countless times I’ve watched black consumers either refuse or hesitate to support black luxury fashion labels, claiming that the merchandise is ridiculously overpriced. However, these are some of the very same consumers that will splurge on a designer belt from a traditional luxury label without a second thought. We see this pattern very often. It always makes me question what makes something “luxurious” and why we are so cautious when it comes to purchasing luxury pieces from black owned brands. There are literally hundreds of ways this question could be answered. But, looking at the history of black people and the consequential need we have to feel validated, one could of course say that our dependence upon certain mainstream design houses stem from a desire to be associated with the majority, or the race who is thought to be “superior” within our society. When a group of people have been enslaved, abused, denied opportunities to better themselves, and essentially set back for generations, there’s no question that all of that breeds generational curses and deep insecurities that can affect countless aspects of our lives, even down to our buying choices. Many of us may look at who we consider to be “well off” and ahead in life and think, whether conciously or subconsciously: “I want to shop where they shop. It will show the world that I am important, just like them.”And if this is the thought process we’re adopting when it comes to our shopping experiences, then personally I feel it’s time that we really think about how we define “luxury” within our lifestyles and possibly begin to redefine it for ourselves.

Models wearing Andrea Iyamah.

Models wearing Andrea Iyamah.

By definition, the word luxury is defined as “ the state of great comfort and extravagant living.” There have been so many black owned or black affiliated luxury brands that have come and gone. Very few have withstood the test of time while your traditional brands like Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, etc. have remained in the mix for as long as we can remember. While I’m well aware that there are multiple reasons for this, the one that we as a people can control is our ability to pour our money and support into brands that genuinely celebrate us, whether they be traditional and mainstream, emerging, or start ups.

Often times, I feel that we as black people are too hard on each other in business. We often complain and pick a brand apart when it comes to their price points, but splurge on other well known ones without question. We threaten to ruin new designers’ reputation with bad reviews when an item is slightly delayed, but when dealing with a major company we tend to grin and bear it. Don’t get me wrong, as a chronic perfectionist and a bargain lover, I definitely can relate on some fronts. But looking at the big picture, if we as black people truly want to leave our mark on the fashion industry, we have to be more patient and supportive of each other, especially when it comes to premium goods. This is when redefining luxury should come into play. We shouldn’t be ashamed or hesitant to give a new designer a try, as long as they are providing us with quality merchandise in materials that will sustain us for seasons to come, looks that inspire us and make us proud to wear them, and great customer service. To me, that should be our standard for luxury. Brands like Nichole Lynel, Laquan Smith (my fave ready to wear designer, period), Andrea Iyamah, India Monae, MWR Collection, and Sai Sankoh are just a few of the current black owned luxury labels who work tirelessly to maintain that standard. We should be open to them and brands similar, proud to wear them and proud to plug them.

Model wearing the Adorn Jacket by India Monae.

Model wearing the Adorn Jacket by India Monae.

Don’t get me wrong, there’s absolutely nothing wrong at all with shopping a traditional luxury brand. I, myself CANNOT WAIT until I’m in a position to splurge on Fendi as that’s one of the mainstream brands that I covet the most. However, I think that more black consumers taking the time to discover and support emerging luxury labels that are black owned would only push the culture forward and open certain doors that we claim we so desperately want access to. This goes beyond just buying from them. It should also affect the ways we navigate the industry. For example, for all of the fashion hopefuls complaining that they can’t find employment or internship opportunities within the industry due to racism and discrimination, think of how many black owned brands would love to help their own people grow in the field, especially knowing that a majority of their sales has come from their own people. Additionally, supporting black owned luxury labels even as they are emerging would lead to us having more options when it comes to wearing a luxury brand; we wouldn’t necessarily have to opt for a design house that creates and sells racially demeaning merchandise to the very consumers that often support them.

Wearing creations by our own people with pride, providing constructive criticism that will give minority owned labels a chance to grow instead of tearing them down, and choosing to shop with brands that show respect to our people are a few of the ways that I feel we can redefine luxury, ensuring that blacks in fashion can have longevity in the industry and actually profit from it ourselves, heavily influencing the culture for years to come.

Sharra,

“The definition of walking art.”

Sources / Featured Brands : Fashion Bomb Daily, Andrea Iyamah, India Monae, Laquan Smith,MWR Collection, Nichole Lynel, Sai Sankoh